Vegetarian and Jain food in Japan: a practical guide

Japan is wonderful for food, but fish stock hides in many dishes. Here is how Indian vegetarian and Jain travellers eat well.

Updated

Lantern-lit food stalls in Omoide Yokocho, Shinjuku, at night

The one thing to know

Dashi — a stock made with bonito (fish) flakes — is the base of miso soup, noodle broths and many sauces, so a dish that looks vegetarian often is not. Oyster sauce and egg are also common. Asking for "no meat" is not enough; ask about fish stock specifically, or carry a food card in Japanese.

What usually works

Inari sushi (rice in sweet tofu pockets), plain onigiri rice balls with pickled plum or kombu, vegetable tempura at specialist restaurants, and Zen Buddhist temple cuisine (shojin ryori) in Kyoto, which is fully vegetarian by tradition. Large chains publish allergen and ingredient charts, which help. Apps such as HappyCow list vegetarian and vegan restaurants city by city.

Indian food when you want it

Tokyo and Osaka both have Indian restaurants, several of which take Jain requests if told in advance. We share a current list for the neighbourhoods you stay in and book a table on the evenings you want one.

Ryokans and kaiseki

A traditional ryokan dinner is a long kaiseki meal, usually built on fish. Most good ryokans can prepare a vegetarian kaiseki with a few weeks' notice, and some can manage Jain requirements. We confirm this in writing with each hotel before you travel.

How we help

For every trip we arrange your dietary requirements with hotels in advance, give you a card in Japanese that explains them, and plan restaurants along your route — so food is a pleasure, not a worry.

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